Exhibition - Wear It or Not

There are just a few weeks left to see a 

remarkable jewelry exhibit at

the Museum of Arts and Design in NYC. 

 "Wear it or Not: Recent Jewelry Acquisitions"

 is showing until June 2, 2013.

The description of this show is as exciting

as the photos,

Over the past five years, MAD has collected nearly 200 exceptional pieces of art jewelry. From classic mid-century works to computer-designed musical jewelry, Wear It or Not: Recent Jewelry Acquisitions showcases the depth and variety of the new additions to the museum’s renowned permanent collection.

The exhibition will feature nearly 130 works from around the world including Melanie Bilenker, Kat Cole, Mari Ishikawa, Iris Nieuwenburg, Lucie Heskett Brem, Beverley Price, Verena Sieber-Fuchs and Kiff Slemmons. The exhibition will explore a range of jewelry making techniques, including computer design and digital fabrication, as well as the use of uncommon and unexpected materials to carry contemporary art jewelry beyond its decorative function into new creative realms of conceptual, social and political resonance.

 

Emily Watson Jewelry

I recently came across innovative

jewelry created by multi-talented

 metalsmith Emily Watson,

and as I read about her ideas and the multiple

processes she uses to create her jewelry

I found myself becoming increasingly more intrigued.

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Among her varied range of collections my favorite
 is the Smoke Proof Collection which 
combines enamel with sterling silver.

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However this collection is comprised of a

more labor-intensive range of elements

than one would ordinarily expect.

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 She begins by combining

 etching and printing techniques

to pull paper prints of her designs.

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But that’s only the first layer of work.
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She then uses the etched copper plates

as a base for her enameling and

metalsmithing processes to create jewelry.

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I especially like how she describes

her process and motivation.

Here's a portion of her detailed explanation.

 

Smoke proofing is a process originally used by

type cutters. As the shape was being cut,

progress was tested by blackening the image with

soot collected from a candle flame and then

printing it on paper . . . The idea of the smoke proof

appeals to me for several reasons.

The type of enameling I use most frequently,

champlevé, is closely tied to methods of printmaking.

A copper plate is etched to produce low areas

(which are filled with enamel) and raised fields . . .

I began this series of work thinking of the pieces

simply as playful experiments in printing an image

from one material to another . . . The marks left speak

about what is not present. The processes used to make them

are temperamental and difficult to reproduce . . .

The heated plate acts like the brief flash of heat that

turns powdered enamel to a solid glass surface.

It imprints a memory, and that

memory then becomes a piece of jewelry.

 By understanding the various elements of
her work I can see more layers of interest
in each piece.

 

 

Her innovative combination of techniques
and  her spirit of exploration
captures and inspires
my imagination.
It is work that's created
thoughtfully and meticulously
and the results show it.

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 Be sure to take a look at the entire range
of her work on Emily Watson's website.

 

Gold With Silk - Lynsey Pluck Jewelry

Lynsey Pluck creates jewelry incorporating

 ethically-sourced precious and 

non-precious materials.

Her current designs combine 

18kt gold and gemstones with 

intriguingly-colorful recycled sari silk.
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Some of her pieces showcase the 

intensely-colored silks utilizing just enough

 metal to create a bold setting.

 

Other pieces allow her metalsmithing techniques

 to shine while incorporating just enough

 silk fabric to serve as focal points.

 Each combination of metal and fabric

is eye catching. 

 

You can see more of Lynsey Pluck's work

on her website.

Delicate Yet Strong - Daniela Osterrieder Jewelry

 Distinctive gold jewelry created by metalsmith

Daniela Osterrieder is astonishingly delicate,

elegant, simple and sophisticated.

 

There seems to be a subtle connection

among all her pieces - an illusion of

delicacy hiding the true strength of the metal.

 

I love the delicate wispiness of this bracelet

made with incredibly thin, smooth strands of gold.

 



 

 

 

Her work is dainty even when mixed with red rubber.

 

 

This brooch always captures my attention.

It reminds me of cobblestone streets found

throughout Europe.

 



 

This artist proves gold is truly a soft metal.

It lends itself well to these exquisite designs -

so many seem to be as finely textured as silk.

 

More information about Daniela Osterrieder's work

can be found at the Charon Kransen Gallery.